Drums

On Sunday evening, Ten, Jen, Oni and I went to see the Kodo Drummers of Japan at Boston’s Symphony Hall. I’ve been waiting for them to come around since I went deaf, 18 years ago. I first saw them 20+ years ago and figured, post deafness, I’d be able to experience music again. I mostly could too.

I wasn’t hearing the drumming as much as feeling it. The sound, the beats resonated through the wooden underside of my seat. I may’ve looked odd—hunched over, gripping the bottom of my chair—but I was there, drinking in the rhythms and booms. There were more subtle pieces (where shinobue flutes were featured, not drums) which I was unable to feel. I could see the men and women playing but no sound came through to me. 

Okay, there was one fairly delicate drum piece that felt/sounded like rain falling on a tin roof. It was gorgeous. I asked Jen if that’s how it sounded to her too. Yes, score one for the deafie!

I don't recall, from the show 20+ years ago, seeing women amongst the crew. On Sunday though, close to half the band were of the female persuasion. This may explain why only a few of the drummers were clothed in nothing but very white fundoshi (loincloth). Seeing this barely clad dude play that gigantic drum as though poised to do battle as well as the four men seated on the floor stretched out at 145º angles. They played mid-size drums which sat between their legs. It was pretty amazing. I could see every muscle at work as they smashed those skins. Grey’s Anatomy, the surgical (and artist) reference book on clinical anatomy came to mind as I watched. Yeah you’d think I’d get sexy-time vibes but no—I was thinking art—how awesome it would be to draw or paint them.

 The other thing that was different from a zillion years ago was that all the musicians were obviously having a blast—smiling, groovin' to the beats. There was a lot of joy on that stage—it radiated off of them. No stoicism for this lot.

The audience people-watching was fab too. In addition to the formerly dressed crowd, in the row ahead of us was a young man wearing a light red and white floral printed yukata with loose, flowing cotton pants. Two rows ahead were two women in full kimonos with obi. There are at least five sushi restaurants in the immediate area. I wondered if they’d come straight from work or had dressed to the nines just for the concert.

Meanwhile, on the other side of the planet, our man Hillel and his lovely wife are still in Northern India.

They visited Chand Baori (AKA Abhaneri Step Well) in the village of Abhaneri near Jaipur. It’s one of the deepest and largest step-wells in India.

You may be wondering, what in Vishnu’s name is a step-well (I was).

…these sprawling wonders of architecture and engineering provided communities with water for bathing, drinking, washing, and irrigation. Not ideal destinations for those with a fear of heights, stepwells descend several stories into the earth to connect to the water table. From there, a labyrinth of stairs leads back up to ground level. Many of these grand constructions also functioned as Hindu temples and were ornamented with pavilions, archways, stone sculptures of deities, and columns. (source)

This step well (dating from the 8th century) was built next to the Harshat Temple (7th century). Harshat Mata is/was the Goddess of Joy.

They also dropped in on the Taj Mahal who had been expecting them.